keith_correa
Well-Known Member
Spoke too soon. Something came in the way. I'm withdrawing. Sorry.
Amp enclosures/chasis cabinets
- Thread starter magma
- Start date
Spoke too soon. Something came in the way. I'm withdrawing. Sorry.
Spoken to Ali, will not work out for me; You may please lay your claim.
Here are some prototype pics
cab going to sachu
Note: to all prospective buyers
Please do understand that is nothing but a decent DIY build.Please do not go around expecting a high end pristine finished OEM cab
i will wait for a day if any one wants to pull out or add
The group buy is then closed
few questions about the build, I just want to make a list of things needed and avoid unnecessary trips to sp road
.the hole next to the iec inlet is for the input selector right?
dpdt switch is what I need as an input selector toggle?
Are the small holes for additional rca inputs? do these need to be enlarged before use with the additional input selector card.
What are the specs for the fuse that is needed in the iec socket?
do I need standoffs like when mounting a mobo in a pc cab. what kind of screws would be needed to mount the pcbs.
Any normal led would do right?
Anything I need to mount the r core trafo?
sachu888
Well-Known Member
few questions about the build, I just want to make a list of things needed and avoid unnecessary trips to sp road
the hole next to the iec inlet is for the input selector right?
dpdt switch is what I need as an input selector toggle?
Are the small holes for additional rca inputs? do these need to be enlarged before use with the additional input selector card.
What are the specs for the fuse that is needed in the iec socket?
do I need standoffs like when mounting a mobo in a pc cab. what kind of screws would be needed to mount the pcbs.
Any normal led would do right?
Anything I need to mount the r core trafo?
Hi Doors,
I have requested to make a hole next to IEC socket for XLR connection.It was needed in my case to power my DIY phono.
Small holes for additional RCA sockets for people input selector boards.
I am using 250 MA fuse in IES socket.
Yes you will need standoffs,I am using brass standoffs,make sure that any component of PCB should not touch the chassis.You can use standoffs screws for this.
Yes any LED will do.
You will need to screw down the trafo.
look here for more details http://www.hifivision.com/diy/21036-pass-b1-70.html
sachu888
Well-Known Member
One correction to above post.You can not use standoffs for B1 board as two Electrolyte caps height is more than cab.I am using Nut bolt for this purpose.You can use two Nuts as spacers between PCB and chassis.
regards
Sachin
regards
Sachin
Answers
1. No that was done only for sachu- it was done for phono stage power
the group buy cabs wont have it
the Ip selector hole is the hole next to the volume control knob on the front plate
the hole dia is 5.5mm
i dont know what diameter it should be so i havent enlarged the hole
I have asked this question in the past but no one has given an opinion or come to a consensus
You guys should understand -enlarging holes on the finished face plate is not easy using hand tools
also the face plate cannot be detatched and reattatched more than a couple times- Reason the side panel is aluminum extrusion and the self tapping threads in extrusions wear out if you use them too much
For this reason i will be including some extra long screws meant for the front panel ( in case the original threads wear out - use these extra long screws - they will make their own threads as you screw them in )[2/B]
2.i have no idea - hole was drilled at 5.5 mm according so sachu and oms recomendation
3.in the group buy cabs there are no small holes
all holes on the rear have been drilled at 9.6mm dia so you need no expand them later
4.Fuse specs as sachu posted
5 that is right- stand offs are needed like in a PC- use M3 or 3mm screws and thier respective stand offs
You may require really low standoffs for the Pass B1 PCB since sachu says the capacitors are a tight fit
Internal height is 66mm ( this was confirmed by OM as ok )
i can provide you nylon washers that you can use as spacers instead of using stand offs ( for the PASS B1 PCB ) - in case using these you will need M3 screw and its female nut
6. a 3mm holes has been provided for LED ( everyone needs to be sure about that too)
3mm has been advised because the led stcuk onto the front plate looks untidy- my clients usally stick the LED at the rear and just let the light shine through the hole
Sachin please advice if this has worked for you
I advice - try and do NO rework on the front panel for which you have to disassemble it
tell me NOW what you need - before i final assemble it
7.No idea
i havent received my parts as yet
Status of cabs
all parts except faceplate in process of final Silver anodise brush finish
face plate will go on Wednesday
rgds
Ali
Last edited:
To all the guys in the groupbuy, can we decide on the input selector. Is it possible to use the existing 5.5 mm hole with a dpdt toggle switch for 2 inputs as well as a rotary dial for multiple inputs.
I definitely see myself using more than 2 inputs. cd player and htpc I already have and maybe someday a phono too, also will need one more for avr preouts to use when I go for a 2 channel separate amp.
I definitely see myself using more than 2 inputs. cd player and htpc I already have and maybe someday a phono too, also will need one more for avr preouts to use when I go for a 2 channel separate amp.
not sure, just checked on ebay, saw some preamp input selectors, looks like a pot along with a circuit board. we already have the ckt in the b1 pcb, for more omishra's pcb can be used. looks like we might only need a pot. i'll ask pm him and see if he can help us out with this.
sachu888
Well-Known Member
I think Om is using this Input selector kit Input / Source Selector DIY Kit (4 to 1 way) 4 Channel Selection | eBay
Regards,
Sachin
Okay guys! Sorry about cutoff. BSNL knocked out on weekends.
That 5mm hole near volume pot is for DPDT toggle switch which is default input selector for B1. As Sachin suggested I used 4-1 which has 4-1 rotary switch. That required same whole as Volume Pot.
That 5mm hole near volume pot is for DPDT toggle switch which is default input selector for B1. As Sachin suggested I used 4-1 which has 4-1 rotary switch. That required same whole as Volume Pot.
Yes! DPDT toggle switch.
I think they will be finished to 9.5mm where you can put neutrik kind of RCA's.
250mA-350mA will do
You could get 5mm M3 spacers, I am not sure as not seen the actual cab yet.
3mm, less bright, color your choice.
nut-bolt: 3mm dia, 7-10mm length, matching washers will be better.
I would prefer to go with the larger hole so that i can fit the rotary dial. enlarging the front panel later is a headache and probably will spoil the looks. any scratches during enlarging means i will have to go for polishing/finishing also later. This would mean I would need another one of those machined aluminium knobs also. If possible, maybe this one can be a little bit smaller than volume control to distinguish.
Few more questions:
Om, did you purchase from ebay or made your own pcb. If you made your own and have a spare, would like one.
As I dont need all the extra inputs right away:
Is it possible to use the standard toggle switch in the larger hole by using some hack (without spoiling the cab). Dont care if it looks ugly right now.
Is it possible to use the rotary dial (its a pot right) (without getting the board also) with the standard 2 inputs of b1.
Do you get a toggle switch with 4 inputs (wont be called toggle then right) that I can use with just 2 inputs for the time being and later add more when I get/make a board.
If above options dont work, I would like a larger hole for the front panel for the rotary dial with machined aluminium knob, will keep this as a dummy (maybe with a pot) for the time being. Also would like the smaller hole for toggle switch at the back of the cabinet. which ever is not in use, I will close with some kind of a plastic tab or blutack or something like that. This will give me the flexibility to use whatever i want.
GB members, please provide inputs asap. Ali, could you please provide some info as to how much extra the knob and hole will cost.
Few more questions:
Om, did you purchase from ebay or made your own pcb. If you made your own and have a spare, would like one.
As I dont need all the extra inputs right away:
Is it possible to use the standard toggle switch in the larger hole by using some hack (without spoiling the cab). Dont care if it looks ugly right now.
Is it possible to use the rotary dial (its a pot right) (without getting the board also) with the standard 2 inputs of b1.
Do you get a toggle switch with 4 inputs (wont be called toggle then right
) that I can use with just 2 inputs for the time being and later add more when I get/make a board.If above options dont work, I would like a larger hole for the front panel for the rotary dial with machined aluminium knob, will keep this as a dummy (maybe with a pot) for the time being. Also would like the smaller hole for toggle switch at the back of the cabinet. which ever is not in use, I will close with some kind of a plastic tab or blutack or something like that. This will give me the flexibility to use whatever i want.
GB members, please provide inputs asap. Ali, could you please provide some info as to how much extra the knob and hole will cost.
I got it from ebay, did not put effort into that. This was used by me.
You can mount toggle switch behind on L mounting. Or buy rotary 2-pole 4 position switch. Also in one fan regulator I found rotary switch which could be adjusted for 1-6 position and having 2 -poles.
Do you get a toggle switch with 4 inputs (wont be called toggle then right
You know the answer.I would prefer to go with the larger hole so that i can fit the rotary dial. enlarging the front panel later is a headache and probably will spoil the looks. any scratches during enlarging means i will have to go for polishing/finishing also later. This would mean I would need another one of those machined aluminium knobs also. If possible, maybe this one can be a little bit smaller than volume control to distinguish.
Few more questions:
Om, did you purchase from ebay or made your own pcb. If you made your own and have a spare, would like one.
As I dont need all the extra inputs right away:
Is it possible to use the standard toggle switch in the larger hole by using some hack (without spoiling the cab). Dont care if it looks ugly right now.
Is it possible to use the rotary dial (its a pot right) (without getting the board also) with the standard 2 inputs of b1.
Do you get a toggle switch with 4 inputs (wont be called toggle then right
If above options dont work, I would like a larger hole for the front panel for the rotary dial with machined aluminium knob, will keep this as a dummy (maybe with a pot) for the time being. Also would like the smaller hole for toggle switch at the back of the cabinet. which ever is not in use, I will close with some kind of a plastic tab or blutack or something like that. This will give me the flexibility to use whatever i want.
GB members, please provide inputs asap. Ali, could you please provide some info as to how much extra the knob and hole will cost.
1. front hole ( toggle switch one ) can be enlarged to 6.9mm ( so the same size can be used for an ip selector ) if all in the group buy are fine with it
2. rear 5mm hole can be provided - once again all need to agree - since im doing the whole group buy on a NO profit basis in any case im not gonna charge extra for one hole!
P.S : theres absolutely NOWAY im gonna build cabinets again!it just took too much work.My dads already been on my case to give up this hobby and concentrate on the family business
3. extra knobs - i dont have extras yet
i have only 14( 10 for the group + 2 bare bones and 2 that had been requested)
Most probably i will be making some later since capt rajesh has twisted my arm into building him another custom cab for his power amp- ill have to do some knobs in any case
at that time ill make some extra
I am good with it.
This is just for convenience of others who might not want to add a rotary input selector immediately. I am also ok with skipping it.
Sorry, the reference to cost was due to the aluminium knob for i/p selector, not for the hole.
While I do appreciate the no profit you did for us and others, its not sustainable in the long run. I am of the opinion that you need to atleast charge for your time factor. Another possibility is using your site to publish the prices with full profits and then maybe work out some discount for hfv members. I am sure members will prefer to give you profits rather than loose you as a great diy source.
I have no issues waiting.
GB Guys: Please respond on the above questions.
stereorules
Active Member
I will also be using the input selector board with a rotary switch, wud prefer suitable size hole . I dont hv the switch as of now but om was mentioning that it shld be the same size as a vol pot .
I dont need it but if rest every one wants it, I will need to figure out a way to close it later.
I will also be needing an extra one like doors and can wait for it ...
Why not start a poll for different options. Here it is.
I've given mine. Guys, please put in your preferences. Feel free to edit it if required.
I've given mine. Guys, please put in your preferences. Feel free to edit it if required.
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