Onkyo AVR owners thread

Can someone tell me what is the difference between using the dB level setting of the sub in the receiver and the volume dial on the sub?
Do both of them regulate the sub dB level?

Also is it better to use the LPF (for LFE) in the receiver or on the sub?
 
Can someone tell me what is the difference between using the dB level setting of the sub in the receiver and the volume dial on the sub?
Do both of them regulate the sub dB level?

Also is it better to use the LPF (for LFE) in the receiver or on the sub?

dB level setting in the AVR is updating the AVR on how far the speakers are from your listening position....

Hope your volume dial numbers on the sub are denoted in dB....Volume dial on the sub is to adjust the bass according to your room needs....

LFE is the output from AVR to the Sub... LPF is a function in the AVR, where it send the signal thru LFE to sub @ the crossover point where you have mentioned for each speaker...
 
dB level setting in the AVR is updating the AVR on how far the speakers are from your listening position....

Hope your volume dial numbers on the sub are denoted in dB....Volume dial on the sub is to adjust the bass according to your room needs....

LFE is the output from AVR to the Sub... LPF is a function in the AVR, where it send the signal thru LFE to sub @ the crossover point where you have mentioned for each speaker...

I didn't quite understand the first part.
We are already keying in the speaker distances in the receiver manually or via auto calibration.

Volume dial on my sub (B&W ASW610) doesn't have dB mentioned.

I already know the function of LPF and LFE.
But my sub also has an internal LPF of it's own and there's a switch to bypass it.
So either I can use the LPF from the AVR (which I have set to 100 for now) or I can use the LPF on the sub (which I have bypassed for now).
B&W manual advises to use the AVR LPF in movies and the sub LPF in music.
 
42K looks like a good price.. Where did you buy them? What are speakers that you have auditioned so far....

I got it from Bangkok. I have checked Paradigm Ct 100 till now,will again check them, also have to check wharfedale 10.1 BS or 121 based 5.1 also.

Any recommendations ?
 
I didn't quite understand the first part.
We are already keying in the speaker distances in the receiver manually or via auto calibration.

Keying in the speaker distance manually is what i meant there... May be my choice of words weren't right there...

Volume dial on my sub (B&W ASW610) doesn't have dB mentioned.

I already know the function of LPF and LFE.
But my sub also has an internal LPF of it's own and there's a switch to bypass it.
So either I can use the LPF from the AVR (which I have set to 100 for now) or I can use the LPF on the sub (which I have bypassed for now).
B&W manual advises to use the AVR LPF in movies and the sub LPF in music.

If you have connected the subwoofer to the AVR, then this function will not apply in subwoofer.....

If you have connected your front left & right speakers from the sub, only then the LPF filter applies....

I got it from Bangkok. I have checked Paradigm Ct 100 till now,will again check them, also have to check wharfedale 10.1 BS or 121 based 5.1 also.

Any recommendations ?

Here is my thought on a HT system....

50:50 - Movies-Music, BS is more than enough......

More movies & less music - Then BS/Satellite speakers.......

Go for a FS only if you like stereo, have an integ amp, and if you have no sub...Otherwise, BS will suffice....
 
Keying in the speaker distance manually is what i meant there... May be my choice of words weren't right there...



If you have connected the subwoofer to the AVR, then this function will not apply in subwoofer.....

If you have connected your front left & right speakers from the sub, only then the LPF filter applies....

What I mean is that there is a dB setting for sub in the AVR (different from the speaker/sub distance setting) and there is a volume knob on the sub itself.
Which one should be used to regulate sub output?

The sub is connected via the sub out on the AVR (and line input on the sub as opposed to speaker input).
So in this case do you mean to say that there is no use of setting the LPF for LFE in the AVR?
I have already bypassed the sub LPF.
 
I got it from Bangkok. I have checked Paradigm Ct 100 till now,will again check them, also have to check wharfedale 10.1 BS or 121 based 5.1 also.

Any recommendations ?

I have demoed the CT100 and it seemed decent enough for movies in a small to medium sized room but might not be able to fill up a large area.
In satellite systems, I would recommend Monitor Audio Mass, Golden Ear SuperSat, Q Acoustics 7000i (I have demoed the first two).

In bookshelves you have plenty of options depending on budget.
 
What I mean is that there is a dB setting for sub in the AVR (different from the speaker/sub distance setting) and there is a volume knob on the sub itself.
Which one should be used to regulate sub output?

If you have done the room calibration, you can find a number before the dB setting for subwoofer in the AVR.... Leave it as it is... This will not regulate the volume of the sub... Use the volume knob to adjsut yo your taste...

The sub is connected via the sub out on the AVR (and line input on the sub as opposed to speaker input).
So in this case do you mean to say that there is no use of setting the LPF for LFE in the AVR?
I have already bypassed the sub LPF.

If you have connected the subwoofer to the AVR, then LPF in AVR will apply....

You could write a letter to Onkyo for a special forum webpage

Sure good idea... Should this be done my the moderators of the forum?
 
If the AVR shows DTS HD MA or DOLBY TRUEHD (in red), is it alone conclusive proof that the output is the same or do I need to check in the source settings as well?

Also is it better to let the ps3/ps4 handle the decoding of audio or should I pass it on to the AVR?
 
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If the AVR shows DTS HD MA or DOLBY TRUEHD (in red), is it alone conclusive proof that the output is the same or do I need to check in the source settings as well?

Also is it better to let the ps3/ps4 handle the decoding of audio or should I pass it on to the AVR?

Yes... If you see Master Audio on AVR, it is conclusive proof that your source material has that......

It is better if you set the bit-stream in PS to AVR & let the AVR do the de-coding...
 
Yes... If you see Master Audio on AVR, it is conclusive proof that your source material has that......

It is better if you set the bit-stream in PS to AVR & let the AVR do the de-coding...

Ok thanks!

But in PS4 there are three options LPCM, Bitstream (Dolby), Bitstream (DTS).
So do I need to change between Dolby and DTS bitstream every time before a new game, depending on what audio is there in the game disc?
 
Ok thanks!

But in PS4 there are three options LPCM, Bitstream (Dolby), Bitstream (DTS).
So do I need to change between Dolby and DTS bitstream every time before a new game, depending on what audio is there in the game disc?

I don't have a PS.. But try this...Set LPCM in PS... Try playing a game with DTS (or) Dolby and see what pops-up on your AVR screen....
 
I don't have a PS.. But try this...Set LPCM in PS... Try playing a game with DTS (or) Dolby and see what pops-up on your AVR screen....

By setting to LPCM in PS4, AVR shows Multichannel (when I press the Display button).
But I think in both cases the output will be the uncompressed one.
 
The remote quality of onkyo receivers are terrible. I have a TX-NR 709 and the volume and some more oten, used buttons stopped working aftre 1.5 years of purchase. Terrible.

Onkyo dealer is asking 3k for a replacement, and that too he does not have the same model(learning one)


Anyone else having similar issues.
 
The remote quality of onkyo receivers are terrible. I have a TX-NR 709 and the volume and some more oten, used buttons stopped working aftre 1.5 years of purchase. Terrible.

Onkyo dealer is asking 3k for a replacement, and that too he does not have the same model(learning one)


Anyone else having similar issues.

Same thing happened to my old Onkyo remote, it went dead.
You can try one of the Electronic repair stores in Bangalore.
If you happen to be in Jayanagar I can let you know the shop I went to.

They will get the same remote fixed for like 100 - 250/- bucks.

If you don't find any, take it to SP road. Lots of remote "specialists" are there who change some board inside the remote and make it work.
I wouldn't risk these kind of jugad fixes for the main Amp, but with the Remote its fine cause what do you lose anyways.
 
The remote quality of onkyo receivers are terrible. I have a TX-NR 709 and the volume and some more oten, used buttons stopped working aftre 1.5 years of purchase. Terrible.

Onkyo dealer is asking 3k for a replacement, and that too he does not have the same model(learning one)


Anyone else having similar issues.

Yes, I have also heard about the same.
But I think the company itself is not manufacturing these remotes.
I guess the source for these remotes might be common for many manufacturers.
But anyway the onus of providing quality accessories is on Onkyo.

BTW is anyone using the DLNA or Home Media options successfully?
 
Hi I bought an ONKYO TX-NR828 couple of months back. I have been using the THX Cinema Setting for watching both Movies and Serials from my Sony BD Player and my LG Media Player. Any setting suggestions for improved audio experience? some of the serials seem to have low audio track levels so have to crank up the volume when using the LG Media Player.So far no problems with the remote. Have setup the system using the Audyssey MultiEQ after switching back and forth with my own settings with a dB meter. Somehow I seem to find the THX crossover setting which equalizes all channels at 80Hz to be somehow better than the Audyssey multiEQ calibration (mine is Fronts 40Hz, Center 70 Hz and Surrounds 120Hz). Your thoughts?
 
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Same thing happened to my old Onkyo remote, it went dead.
You can try one of the Electronic repair stores in Bangalore.
If you happen to be in Jayanagar I can let you know the shop I went to.

They will get the same remote fixed for like 100 - 250/- bucks.

If you don't find any, take it to SP road. Lots of remote "specialists" are there who change some board inside the remote and make it work.
I wouldn't risk these kind of jugad fixes for the main Amp, but with the Remote its fine cause what do you lose anyways.

True, i guess i will try that before plonking out 3000 bucks, also a chinese version of the same is selling on ebay.com for 30$. So maybe just go with that.
 
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