suspended av cabinet???

[Kevian]

Brothers,

1)Is it possible to make above shown suspended cabinet with scales -->6 ft in length, 2 ft in depth and 2 ft in height?

2)Will it be able to take the load of all av components, tv(32 to 47 inch), front and center bookshelf speakers???

3)Do you guys think Indian brick walls are suitable for such a config?

4) Am I asking too much from such a config?

Any possible directions ?

Regards
Venkat

 

[Raghav]

should be possible after providing horizontal steel support flushed under the cabinet.

 

[ukjeyaraj]

Should be possible. Just provide two vertical wooden "pattis"(of 1.5 or 2 inch width) as support in the back side of the cabinet. Fix the "pattis" at a gap of 2 feet. When you fix it to the walls put additional screws on these "pattis" and fix it to the wall. that should suffice. Make sure you fix with screws of atleast 3 inches length.

Though it can take front too. I prefer to keep it away from the screen. Not so close to the screen. Anyway its your personal choice.

 

[hemantwaghe]

Please check
I feel ,IMHO TV is NOT on cupboard but SUSPENDED on wall so wall is bearing load of TV.

Now there is no AVR so that unit takes only weight of DEcoder and DVD
Also have strong feeling that it is not mearly on hooks but on 6 to 8 strong scews.

The thicker plank effect must have brought by makig box like structure of thinner planks...

 

[marsilians]

Brothers,

1)Is it possible to make above shown suspended cabinet with scales -->6 ft in length, 2 ft in depth and 2 ft in height?

2)Will it be able to take the load of all av components, tv(32 to 47 inch), front and center bookshelf speakers???

3)Do you guys think Indian brick walls are suitable for such a config?

4) Am I asking too much from such a config?

Any possible directions ?

Regards
Venkat

What you are asking is definitely possible. But you need to speak to a very good carpenter, mason & an installer to get this done for you.

 

[soulforged]

I'm getting something similar done in my apt...My carpenter says it could withstand all my equipment (though I'm not sure if it could take the weight of an AVR)

if you could hang on for a few weeks I could tell you how it turns out...

 

[skumar]

What you are asking is definitely possible. But you need to speak to a very good carpenter, mason & an installer to get this done for you.

+1 to the carpenter, not necessarily you will need the other 2 for this job. The carpenter needs to understand what you are asking for and know what he is going to do, a rare breed these days...

However, with only the equipment that you listed here, why do you need 6*2*2? You may consider having quarter-circle planks extending on either side of the cabinet to place the BSs, this will help you to reduce the width and height of the cabinet. The TV will look better on the wall rather than placed on this unit, even a single brick (5" thick) wall can definitely hold a 42" TV unless the materials used are of "very" low quality.

To keep it looking as nice as it is looking in the picture, you need to think about the cable clutter if you have plans to place your CDP, AVR, DVDP etc. in this cabinet in future. You can have a 2...3" hollow closed compartment at the back to take in all the cables.

 

[Kevian]

Thanks a lot gentlemen for all your responses....I will wait for soulforged to get his work done....

@Soulforged
I share your fear about withstanding the weight....one small favour brother....plzz post relevant pictures of the ongoing work at your place on this thread...picture is worth thousand words you see...


@Skumar
I'd love to put the tv on wall itself but...let me attach a picture...for now and future reference

Please shower your opinions now.....
I don't know how the pati concept would work here considering the weight as the cabinet would be 2 ft in depth without any floor support..I do not want any weight on the floor. My father is strict about Vaastu and I respect his beliefs.

Sorry for the trouble folks..
Thanks,
Venkat

 

[just4kix]

This is what you need.

 

[Kevian]

Just4kix again....I some how found your posts so useful to me...last time when I was googling to troubleshoot my BSNL router...it was your post on some broadband forum that helped me...now I have vague idea of how to go about this.

 

[marsilians]

OK, I am putting on some carpenter hat now...but use the info by running it by a professional.

YOu need bracings both behind the cabinet as well as below it.
Put atleast 3 of these to hold the cabinet.
You need to use long concrete screws to hold them firmly to the wall.
Screw them in at 6 inch intervals
Let the metal clamp all along the lenght of the wood braces. This is what makes or breaks the deal.
What is also beneficial is to run some conduits for cabling. Keep the A/V and power cables separate if possible.
FInally, I would go with a stand that is partitioned into two so you could use one side for storing CD/DVD as such.
A rough schematic is below.

IMP: Make sure that once you put the braces & plank up to leave a heavy load sitting on it of atleast 150 - 200 KGS for a couple of days to see if it sags even a bit. If yes, you need to tighten it appropriately.

Note, its better to plan for a load that is 40-50% more than what you intend to put esp. due to the cost of components + lives of people.

 

[hifiashok]

i hav slim-'jhirri'd' the wall to near brick depth and slunk in two glass shelves. the glass is held in place with silicone (usu. used for sealing/water proofing). my video eqpt. is kept on these. the weight of the eqpt. would define the thickness of the glass and the possible cantilever size. hope this is in line with what you are seeking.

 

[venkatcr]

Venkus Narelius, here are a few bits of advice from me.

Any wall unit like the one you are looking at need to have a number of safety features:

1. The wooden cabinet has to be made well, preferably using hard wood planks. Most Indian carpenter make four ply boards, and just nail them together. This will give way in time, particularly if you put weight on them. You have to use Mitre or Dovetail joints with a ample amount of glue to keep the boards together. In addition I would recommend, at least two rigid brass L joints to be screwed (not nailed) inside for each connection.

2. How do you mount these on the wall? Usually carpenters would mount them like you mount frames. Small screws on the wall, two holes on the extreme ends of the cabinet, and hang the whole thing on the screws. This is completely useless. What you have to do is to drill four to six large holes on the wall. These holes have to be filled with plastic or metal wall plugs. A thick brass L angle joint which is about 3/4th the width of the bracket has to be stuck to the wall using screws on the wall plus. The cabinet has to be mounted on the L joint and again screwed with wood screws.

Remember the plastic or metal wall plugs have to be the expanding type. That is, when you insert a screw and tighten, they expand inside the hole and grab the sides.

3. Even if you do all this, I would not advise keeping either a TV or an AVR on the cabinet.

I have installed such an unit at home to keep my inverter and two large batteries. Instead of the brass L angle, I have used a full length teak plank of 3 inches by 3 inches, and machine cut that into a L joint. Then using metals wall plugs on the wall, I used solid nuts to bolt the L join into the plugs. I then placed a large teak board that bears the weight on these L joints. Of course, the cover for this whole thing was made of ply, but the load bearing parts are all solid wood.

Even for a 32 inch TV that I mounted on the wall recently, the manufacturer insisted on six screws to give the wall mount strength.

In all these activities, unfortunately, you have to take charge and watch over the work. Most carpenters do not have the knowledge and would not even know what a Mitre or a Dovetail joint is.

Cheers

 

[Kevian]

@Marsilians

Thanks a lot Sir, for taking the trouble of depicting in diagrams. It sure made me think very carefully before I get on with this project. I liked the testing process for 2 days..I will bear this in my mind.

@Audio_Engr
I appreciate your efforts of pasting so many images of suspended racks. I actually prefer wall hanging cabinet something akin to the first post. Apologies if the word "Suspended" brought in the confusion. Vaastu remember no weight on the floor.

@Venkat Sir,

Sirjee..forget about carpenter, I didn't know what mitre or dovetail were...had to google that:lol:...looks like you are not convinced that this kind of config will not withstand the weight.

I have installed such an unit at home to keep my inverter and two large batteries. Instead of the brass L angle, I have used a full length teak plank of 3 inches by 3 inches, and machine cut that into a L joint. Then using metals wall plugs on the wall, I used solid nuts to bolt the L join into the plugs. I then placed a large teak board that bears the weight on these L joints. Of course, the cover for this whole thing was made of ply, but the load bearing parts are all solid wood.

If not probs..1 or 2 pictures of it on this thread plzz...
I had the same plan on my mind....but was skeptic about load...took one month researching on it...nothing was convincing me when it came to weight factor...so conceded and thought resident gurus here might throw a good light on this...

I thought a pair of angle rods(one used in office for file racks) of 4 ft each be fixed from inside of the finished cabinet..one on top while other in bottom..similarly 1.5 ft angle rod on left and right of the cabinet. These angle rods will be screwed to wall from inside the cabinet..so nothing would be visible from out side...

Now after seeing just4kix picture, it struck to me that its better to have such steel wall clamp as shown in that pic for additional support....

As of now I would wait for soulforged's work to be over....I am forcing myself to be patient on this matter... equipment worth over a lakh is gonna rest on it.....so Nidaaname Pradhaanam..lets see how it works out to be....

 

[Kevian]

Was referring to this Slotted Angle Bar...not rod

 

[Kevian]

i hav slim-'jhirri'd' the wall to near brick depth and slunk in two glass shelves. the glass is held in place with silicone (usu. used for sealing/water proofing). my video eqpt. is kept on these. the weight of the eqpt. would define the thickness of the glass and the possible cantilever size. hope this is in line with what you are seeking.

Ashok Sir...frankly..that was a bump...probably..I need some knowledge to understand your post..or some good english... do you have a picture of this on "Showcase your setup here" thread?

 

[just4kix]

Just4kix again....I some how found your posts so useful to me...last time when I was googling to troubleshoot my BSNL router...it was your post on some broadband forum that helped me...now I have vague idea of how to go about this.

Thank you. Yes, it is the same me on the broadband forum.

Venkus Narelius, here are a few bits of advice from me.

Any wall unit like the one you are looking at need to have a number of safety features:

1. The wooden cabinet has to be made well, preferably using hard wood planks. Most Indian carpenter make four ply boards, and just nail them together. This will give way in time, particularly if you put weight on them. You have to use Mitre or Dovetail joints with a ample amount of glue to keep the boards together. In addition I would recommend, at least two rigid brass L joints to be screwed (not nailed) inside for each connection.

2. How do you mount these on the wall? Usually carpenters would mount them like you mount frames. Small screws on the wall, two holes on the extreme ends of the cabinet, and hang the whole thing on the screws. This is completely useless. What you have to do is to drill four to six large holes on the wall. These holes have to be filled with plastic or metal wall plugs. A thick brass L angle joint which is about 3/4th the width of the bracket has to be stuck to the wall using screws on the wall plus. The cabinet has to be mounted on the L joint and again screwed with wood screws.

Remember the plastic or metal wall plugs have to be the expanding type. That is, when you insert a screw and tighten, they expand inside the hole and grab the sides.

3. Even if you do all this, I would not advise keeping either a TV or an AVR on the cabinet.

I have installed such an unit at home to keep my inverter and two large batteries. Instead of the brass L angle, I have used a full length teak plank of 3 inches by 3 inches, and machine cut that into a L joint. Then using metals wall plugs on the wall, I used solid nuts to bolt the L join into the plugs. I then placed a large teak board that bears the weight on these L joints. Of course, the cover for this whole thing was made of ply, but the load bearing parts are all solid wood.

Even for a 32 inch TV that I mounted on the wall recently, the manufacturer insisted on six screws to give the wall mount strength.

In all these activities, unfortunately, you have to take charge and watch over the work. Most carpenters do not have the knowledge and would not even know what a Mitre or a Dovetail joint is.

Cheers

Mostly correct.

But a good carpenter would make a box. If four planks are nailed together without the back, the planks would move sideways using the joint as the fulcrum. Ply board is not that weak - MDF and particle boards are weak. If good ply such as Durian used, that will work.

Another issue to be concerned about is the weight of the whole box. The cabinet must be supported by at least three four wall clamps as well as screws on back plate to the wall. See figure.

 

[venkatcr]

But a good carpenter would make a box. If four planks are nailed together without the back, the planks would move sideways using the joint as the fulcrum. Ply board is not that weak - MDF and particle boards are weak. If good ply such as Durian used, that will work.

The original snap posted by Venkus shows only a cabinet frame. I am assuming Venkus wants his unit to be as close to that as possible.

In a cabinet frame, you can stop the sideways movement either by using joints like I mentioned or by using a steel L frame that are screwed at all four ends.

In any case all this assumes that not too much weight is placed on the frame/cabinet or whatever you want to call it. The unit that Venkus has shown in the first post just keeps one board on another and screws them together. These are DIY shelves that are brought to the buyers house and assembled. They will not bear any weight.

Frankly, I will not have too much faith in a ply that does not have solid support all around. At least for expensive stuff such as A/V equipment. In addition to all this, we must not forget the vibration aspect of the whole thing.

Cheers

 

[Kevian]

+1 to that...the L shape steel/iron joint would not only avoid parallelogramisation of rectangular frame/cabinet whatever ..but would strengthen the entire unit together.

like in the first pic of this thread...I think I do not want any back plank...just the frame....and I'll do cable management underneath the frame...


all this will happen only when I get a gut feeling that the employable techniques would withstand the weight of itself and the equipment and some extra like marsilians has said

Venkat
{C'mon can my screen name be changed?....this kus kus venkus is not good..sounds like tus tus venkus ..chose it under the influence of Gladiator...Ram says not possible}

 

[just4kix]

The original snap posted by Venkus shows only a cabinet frame. I am assuming Venkus wants his unit to be as close to that as possible.

In a cabinet frame, you can stop the sideways movement either by using joints like I mentioned or by using a steel L frame that are screwed at all four ends.

In any case all this assumes that not too much weight is placed on the frame/cabinet or whatever you want to call it. The unit that Venkus has shown in the first post just keeps one board on another and screws them together. These are DIY shelves that are brought to the buyers house and assembled. They will not bear any weight.

Frankly, I will not have too much faith in a ply that does not have solid support all around. At least for expensive stuff such as A/V equipment. In addition to all this, we must not forget the vibration aspect of the whole thing.

Cheers

I am completely with you.