Xiaomi to launch Mi TV Q1 75" on 23rd March - QLED, 192 Zones, 120Hz

True, but there is a fundamental user experience problem with HDFC. One has to go through the smartbuy website before placing the order on Amazon to ensure 5x multiplier. You only realise that you missed once you receive such SMSs. This is really frustrating.
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I just never buy anything without going to smartbuy lol. After a couple times, it becomes habitual. Also you can cancel that order and order again using smartbuy.
 
You are lucky one with credit card.
I am waiting for my FTE for having a HDFC credit card.
Hdfc credit cards are good just for their priority pass. The points system is too cumbersome and i am not bothered.
Instead get a idfc card with free golf lessons. Too much tv watching going on.
 
Can someone please share ideal calibration settings for different picture modes for this tv. For now I have just changed the picture mode to movie from standard. Not sure if this is ideal for this tv.
 
Try to go for Infinia when you do get one. I got the Diners Club Black 4 years ago because it was the better card at the time, but they slowly degraded the card to be worse than Infinia now.
I have a regular Regalia. Any idea how to upgrade or just get an Infinia? Online it said invite only, not sure how that works?
 
I have a regular Regalia. Any idea how to upgrade or just get an Infinia? Online it said invite only, not sure how that works?
That's why I suggest getting the big card from the get go. When you open the account, the requirements are lower as you have the bait of new account opening.

I've not been able to upgrade to Infinia despite constant requests to my RM. Part of which is his laziness as well, but it's not an easy card to get. From what I've heard, you either need to be high net worth with a lot of money invested in HDFC, or need to be 45L+ annual salaried. And even that needs to be regular salary, bonus at end of year may not count depending on your luck (unfortunately it didn't in mine).

Diners club black is much easier to get. 1.75 lakhs per month income(pre tax) or 21 lakhs ITR either will do easily. But now the reward cap is much lower and Infinia seems much better. Though for now diners isn't allowed to take more customers in India due to RBI data storage policies.
 
That's why I suggest getting the big card from the get go. When you open the account, the requirements are lower as you have the bait of new account opening.

I've not been able to upgrade to Infinia despite constant requests to my RM. Part of which is his laziness as well, but it's not an easy card to get. From what I've heard, you either need to be high net worth with a lot of money invested in HDFC, or need to be 45L+ annual salaried. And even that needs to be regular salary, bonus at end of year may not count depending on your luck (unfortunately it didn't in mine).

Diners club black is much easier to get. 1.75 lakhs per month income(pre tax) or 21 lakhs ITR either will do easily. But now the reward cap is much lower and Infinia seems much better. Though for now diners isn't allowed to take more customers in India due to RBI data storage policies.
Thanks, will go bother my RM. Have been dodging her calls for the past 3 months :D
 
I just never buy anything without going to smartbuy lol. After a couple times, it becomes habitual. Also you can cancel that order and order again using smartbuy.
Hmm.. for purchase through desktop and big ticket items I do try. While buying MI TV through my Infinia card I ensured that I go via smartbuy.

Challenge is while buying through app. and especially small ticket items.
 
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Hmm.. for purchase through desktop and big ticket items I do try. While buying MI TV through my Infinia card I ensured that I go via smartbuy.

Challenge is while buying through app. and especially small ticket items.
Even on a phone, you can go to the smart buy site, click on Amazon/Flipkart, and it will get you to the Amazon/Flipkart app and you can buy stuff just fine there.

I don't see the issue with even small ticket items or app. Sure, it's not ideal experience as it should automatically give you rewards, but it's just 1/2 clicks extra on both mobile and desktop.
 
With no immediate resolution to the ARC issue and with no compelling reason to upgrade my "all is well" AVR , i decided to come to terms with whatever I have and started working towards a compromised but a failproof solution.

- Disabled CEC on TV. Changed sound to SPDIF/Optical
- Connected the HDMI cable from HDMI Out (also the ARC port) of the Yamaha V375 receiver to HDMI 3 port of TV (earlier it was HDMI 2 which supported ARC/eARC)
- Changed sound output in TV to Dolby Digital
- Connected Airtel Xstream STB to HDMI 2 of TV
- Connected FS to HDMI Port 1 of TV. CEC was ON. Sound output set to best available
- Disabled ARC on the AVR but CEC was ON.

Here's what's working and what's not :

- Since optical only supports DD , will lose out on DD+
- Able to control the AVR (volume) , power on/off of AVR , FS and TV with FS remote. Both Alexa and Google assistant working fine
- No DD on Prime Video using TVs native app as well as Airtel Xstream box but works on FS. Netflix & Hotstar working fine with 5.1 sound output
- FS is still the fastest UI of all the three. Works seamlessly and apps load much faster.
- At same AVR master volume , optical sound output was louder than ARC . Not sure if it sounded better / worse to my untrained ears.
- TV remote for obvious reasons cant control the AVR now . But even if I switch on CEC on TV , still it is not able to control the AVR for reasons beyond my understanding.

As of now , I am happy that nothing is broken so far while using FS. I will keep using the FS as my primary source for everything except sports which i always watch on STB.
 
With no immediate resolution to the ARC issue and with no compelling reason to upgrade my "all is well" AVR , i decided to come to terms with whatever I have and started working towards a compromised but a failproof solution.

- Disabled CEC on TV. Changed sound to SPDIF/Optical
- Connected the HDMI cable from HDMI Out (also the ARC port) of the Yamaha V375 receiver to HDMI 3 port of TV (earlier it was HDMI 2 which supported ARC/eARC)
- Changed sound output in TV to Dolby Digital
- Connected Airtel Xstream STB to HDMI 2 of TV
- Connected FS to HDMI Port 1 of TV. CEC was ON. Sound output set to best available
- Disabled ARC on the AVR but CEC was ON.

Here's what's working and what's not :

- Since optical only supports DD , will lose out on DD+
- Able to control the AVR (volume) , power on/off of AVR , FS and TV with FS remote. Both Alexa and Google assistant working fine
- No DD on Prime Video using TVs native app as well as Airtel Xstream box but works on FS. Netflix & Hotstar working fine with 5.1 sound output
- FS is still the fastest UI of all the three. Works seamlessly and apps load much faster.
- At same AVR master volume , optical sound output was louder than ARC . Not sure if it sounded better / worse to my untrained ears.
- TV remote for obvious reasons cant control the AVR now . But even if I switch on CEC on TV , still it is not able to control the AVR for reasons beyond my understanding.

As of now , I am happy that nothing is broken so far while using FS. I will keep using the FS as my primary source for everything except sports which i always watch on STB.
I do have similar connections except that all of my external input source (STB ) connected to AVR through hdmi. AVR output is connected to hdmi port 2 of the tv. I also have optical cable connected for audio between the tv and AVR.
 
Plex on FS keeps on buffering every 5 mins and after some time gets into a never ending thing. I have a decent broadband connection and have pretty good WiFi covering the entire flat. The Plex media server is installed on a PC which is also pretty high end with fast NVMe.

Anybody can share some idea on what could be the issue. Sharing the dashboard screenshot
 

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Plex on FS keeps on buffering every 5 mins and after some time gets into a never ending thing. I have a decent broadband connection and have pretty good WiFi covering the entire flat. The Plex media server is installed on a PC which is also pretty high end with fast NVMe.

Anybody can share some idea on what could be the issue. Sharing the dashboard screenshot
For a seamless connection make sure you are using a wired Ethernet connection between the router and both Plex server and client. That would be ideal.

Incase you want to use it over Wi-Fi, there could be connection drops , to minimise that, make sure the fire TV stick is directly connected to the same router as the server and not an extender or repeater with the newer 5g WiFi band and not 2.4G with a strong wifi signal. The server should be connected using an Ethernet cable to the router in either case.
 
There’s definitely an ARC issue with this TV. I picked up a certified HDMI 2.1 cable as well to rule out any cable woes, and it still loses audio sync with the apple tv 4k and it only gets resolved with a reboot of the TV.

Very disappointing that something as basic as ARC is poorly implemented.
Various eARC annoyances for me (via a new Apple TV and stereo HomePods).
 
As mentioned sometime back, my complaint for shut without resolution. Since I have moved to a new AVR, I didn't follow up.


I am assuming that everything works now perfect with your new av receiver and tv in passthru mode. All audio source and codecs are recognised properly even when playing via native TV app
 
I am assuming that everything works now perfect with your new av receiver and tv in passthru mode. All audio source and codecs are recognised properly even when playing via native TV app
Yes, everything works fine. Getting ATMOS on Netflix and that experience is surreal.

FS 4k video pass through is fine, but FS compresses the audio to DD+ which is not a perfect experience.

However, Tidal on TV breaks the eARC at times. Overall, native apps are bit buggy. I do have plans to get Shield pro soon.
 
Purchase the Audiolab 6000A Integrated Amplifier at a special offer price.
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