Very rare to get any round-figure readings with a multimeter measuring DC resistance.
Designing a 2-way bookshelf speaker
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shafic
Well-Known Member
I have measured them with multimeter.
One is reading 3.1 and other one is 6.2 ohms DC resistance.
Yes. I am planning to build a ls3/5a by using these drivers. The falcon acoustic is making crossover kits for them. Any advice will be appreciated.
Regards.
One is reading 3.1 and other one is 6.2 ohms DC resistance.
Yes. I am planning to build a ls3/5a by using these drivers. The falcon acoustic is making crossover kits for them. Any advice will be appreciated.
Regards.
My suggestion is that you should replace one tweeter with a new one of the right impedance. Check what impedance the kit needs, and get the new tweeter accordingly.
DC resistance of the voice coil can be measured using multimeters not impedance.
For measuring impedance you will need measuring software like REW, as impedance is a function of frequency. Z=f(FR).
I only meant he has given the values after measuring with the multimeter. I never said if the values are correct.
Anyhow all drivers will report a static impedance value when measured with a multimeter which is usually close to its nominal impedance given in the T/S parameters.
It is actually one good way of finding it.
Just curies to know, are these QC failed circulated or GR too get similar kind?
I'm pretty certain Peerless Denmark or GR Research would get carefully tested units, and the India supply would get anything and everything which is in stock.
I have got in a number of Peerless drivers from abroad through friends and for friends.
The Indian Peerless drivers are just no comparison to the Denmark made drivers in terms of build and consistency.
Even naming them together is sacrilege.
But strangely, till a few years ago, you may have been buying Peerless Denmark drivers which, unknown to you or me, would be made in SEEPZ of Mumbai by Peerless India. I guess the difference is all in the quality control, not in the factory. We in India get the fag end of the bell curve. [emoji2]
I used to know a guy deep inside the Peerless hole in Mumbai and used to source the Denmark drivers through him.
The problem was there were very few high end speaker manufacturers or DIY enthusiast in the country for Peerless india to cater.
They were primarily catering to mass market where the priority was price over quality.
Incidently, probably known to few, Peerless had the expertise and equipment to make high quality drivers, which they were actually making for the export market, which was all routed though the Denmark company.
Exactly. Peerless India today seems to be catering to the "replacement market", where technicians replace faulty drivers with similar-looking ones from wherever they can find. I kid thee not -- they actually just match size and looks. This works very well in cars, gyms, hotel lobbies, etc. Bolton was another very successful manufacturer for this market.
You'll find a lot of these "replacement market targeted" drivers selling on Parts Express too. They are super cheap. Often, their manufacturer name is not specified. Example 1, Example 2. If you read the descriptions, you'll see the word "replacement" right in the first paragraph. I don't touch them.
We, unfortunately are designers and are trying to measure, evaluate and build. To satisfy such customers, the QC needs to be very good, T/S parameters need to be consistent, documentation needs to be accurate and actually match the measured spec. (Remember, the tweeter claiming to have 596Hz Fs and actual Fs of 1KHz?) And needless to say, the market is tiny. So, we should use imported drivers made by manufacturers who deliver our level of quality and also sell to the retail market. As I said before, this is my last project with Peerless India or other Indian drivers. Unfortunately, we get very little choice if we buy from Indian resellers. TheAudioCrafts has barely five midbass drivers in its catalog, and DIYAudioCart of course is more proud to display large "SOLD OUT" banners than actually available items. On more than one occasion, I've had to directly import drivers which were proudly listed on DIYAudioCart as "SOLD OUT" for several months. So, we need to import or do group buys.
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Check what Diyaudiocart and TheAudioCrafts is selling. Even Dayton is hard to get locally, unless the Powers That Be in these two sites have chosen to stock what you want. I recently bought Dayton RS paper cone drivers from DIYAudioCart, but their metal cone cousins were proudly "SOLD OUT", so I got them through Borderlinx from the US. Such is the Indian market.
Well I been told my a Sr FM to get better drivers to justify the hardware connected. So will explore more on kits based on scanspeak/seas. However bit afraid of Carpenters accuracy. They have a error of 1 to 2mm at the minimum
You can easily import Fostex from madisound by paying a marginal custom duty. Mine got delivered in just 10 days by standard US priority mail with no extra charges.
I totally agree. I don't see why Indian DIYers need to limit themselves to just drivers available locally.
Don't have experience in importing, let me try this once GST is settled
Thanks Hari
With Bijin, the good thing is you can also buy on order basis *my experience has only been with Daytons). I have purchased most of my Dayton stuff like that only though him when it was listed as sold out on his site.
After you pay an advance, he adds to his list of next order and it usually arrives within a month.
The problem with importing low cost drivers is the courier charge which sometimes will be more than the invoice cost. Ofcourse customs duty is purely luck based.
After you pay an advance, he adds to his list of next order and it usually arrives within a month.
The problem with importing low cost drivers is the courier charge which sometimes will be more than the invoice cost. Ofcourse customs duty is purely luck based.
Plans of the Bhairav
Finished the draughtsman's job. In the process, thought up a combo of vertical and horizontal braces, and replaced it a (better, I hope) and simpler set of just horizontal braces. And I named this speaker the Bhairav.
The plan: this will give an idea of the external appearance and dimensions.
The internal construction details: this will (I hope!) explain how the enclosure is built internally. It's possible that my diagrams will not suffice to help you understand things. I am hoping that I'll be able to add a lot of information through photos once the carpenter starts building things.
The braces: this just shows the outlines and dimensions of the two types of braces I'm using.
The entire box is built with the following types of material:
These are the materials I use for all my speakers. For larger speakers, I use a double-thickness front baffle; I did not think it's needed for simpler standmount designs. (For the woofer enclosure of the Darbari, I've used 3-sheet-thick front baffle.) For more expensive speaker projects, I use veneer instead of laminate, and use PU polish on all surfaces. I never use nails for anything -- only wood screws, made of ordinary steel. (You may use stainless steel.) I also use Araldite on all joints. I intend to cover the enclosure in this case using laminate, and use glossy black PU polish on just the front baffle, applying this polish directly on the MDF.
Will be happy to answer any questions at this stage, though I expect some of the details will become clearer once you see photos of pieces under construction. My carpenter will probably start work from tomorrow.
I still have to do the Vas measurement of the 6.5" driver in order to design its enclosure.
Finished the draughtsman's job. In the process, thought up a combo of vertical and horizontal braces, and replaced it a (better, I hope) and simpler set of just horizontal braces. And I named this speaker the Bhairav.
The plan: this will give an idea of the external appearance and dimensions.
The internal construction details: this will (I hope!) explain how the enclosure is built internally. It's possible that my diagrams will not suffice to help you understand things. I am hoping that I'll be able to add a lot of information through photos once the carpenter starts building things.
The braces: this just shows the outlines and dimensions of the two types of braces I'm using.
The entire box is built with the following types of material:
- 25mm sheets of MDF for all six outer surfaces
- 18-20mm sheets of ply (very good quality commercial grade ply is enough, marine not needed) for the braces
- a single piece of ply, 3mm or 6mm, or even 6mm acrylic, as a board on which the crossover will be mounted. This sheet in turn will be mounted on the removable rear wall of the enclosure from the inside
- sundry strips of 1" x 1" wood, to build a sort of "frame" just inside the rear wall, where the rear wall will screw on and fit.
These are the materials I use for all my speakers. For larger speakers, I use a double-thickness front baffle; I did not think it's needed for simpler standmount designs. (For the woofer enclosure of the Darbari, I've used 3-sheet-thick front baffle.) For more expensive speaker projects, I use veneer instead of laminate, and use PU polish on all surfaces. I never use nails for anything -- only wood screws, made of ordinary steel. (You may use stainless steel.) I also use Araldite on all joints. I intend to cover the enclosure in this case using laminate, and use glossy black PU polish on just the front baffle, applying this polish directly on the MDF.
Will be happy to answer any questions at this stage, though I expect some of the details will become clearer once you see photos of pieces under construction. My carpenter will probably start work from tomorrow.
I still have to do the Vas measurement of the 6.5" driver in order to design its enclosure.
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