Designing a 2-way bookshelf speaker

Building an Enclosure up to the required expectations is not an easy task. A Lot of Patience is required. You are doing Great.

Router is a must Tool for a DIYer. It makes many tasks easy & If you know how to use it properly for different tasks then one can do many things within minutes which may sometimes takes even a day or two to complete the Job.

In my latest Project regarding Floor Standers, I had done cutting on CNC machine but when it came on assembling the TOP and Bottom Pieces I was shocked to see there was a difference of slightly more than 0.5 mm (this may me the error of machine) & That difference was visible, So I have to make New Pieces which were 1 mm plus then the required size. I Used Router and a trim Blade the remove the extra MDF. Check Post No 18 in the link to have an idea about trimming http://www.hifivision.com/diy/67242-book-slelf-small-room-multimedia-speakers-2.html

Today I Finished my assembly. Now getting ready for Final Make Up which i think is the Most hardest part for most of us in DIY community :p
 
Ya, the degree of fit and precision needed for speakers is higher than what's needed for furniture, therefore typical carpenters struggle to deliver usable output. This is true even before you introduce the additional complication of learning to use a router.
 
I have measured a much smoother SPL with felt.
I see that you have done SPL measurement in the past, but not now, for your recent first-order project. What happened?

In this post I had uploaded the details of the Bhairav -- the small MTM. That was 2 July. It's taken me till yesterday to get the enclosures built, thanks to the old carpenter disappearing and the new carpenter taking days to learn how to use a router.

I now finished the draughtsman's job for the Bhoopali -- the TM design. This one, as you probably remember, uses a 6.5" Peerless India midbass and the TL26 silk dome tweeter whose published Fs is 600Hz and measured Fs is 1000Hz. :D

The box plans are here. In this design, as you can see, I've put the port in the front, partly just for variety, and partly to give the user the option of placing the speaker close to the rear wall if he wants to.

The box internals are here. My diagrams may not be very self-explanatory, but you can see a vertical brace coming down from the top panel to about two thirds of the height. And you can see two horizontal braces. As with the Bhairav, the outer walls and baffle are all made of 25mm MDF, and the internal braces are of 18-20mm ply.

Each enclosure uses two horizontal braces and one vertical brace. The vertical brace does not reach all the way down, to allow open space for the port. The brace diagrams and dimensions are here.

The ports I'm using for both the Bhairav and Bhoopali are this one being offered by DIYaudiocart. This port tube is peculiar -- it tapers. Its internal diameter starts out being about 1.5" near the outer mouth, and tapers to about 1-1/8" near the inner end. I will chop off the inner part, keeping just the outer 2" of length. And then I'll roll some chart paper into a thick roll of 1.5" diameter of the required length and fit it from the inside to the port with StickFast or Araldite. This way, I'll get the finished appearance of the black plastic port opening and flange, but I'll eliminate the tapering which I don't know how to model in my box modeling software. You may of course discard all this and simply use any other port you can find, of 1.5" inner diameter.

Enclosure construction for the Bhoopali started yesterday.
 
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New, simpler, better bracing for the Bhairav

I had said in an earlier post that after building the Bhairav (the MTM), I realised that the bracing could be better and simpler at the same time. So, I went back to the draughtsman's desk and re-did the bracing design. The box plan remains unchanged, but the internals diagram and the bracing diagram are now changed. If you want to build this speaker, please use the new bracing layout.

 
I see that you have done SPL measurement in the past, but not now, for your recent first-order project. What happened?

My AKG microphone and Shure pre-amplifier were borrowed from a friend which is now returned back. I need to invest in a new measuring instrument which i am planning shortly.

In my current Metronome speakers, i have used the ribbon tweeter as a super tweeter crossing them above 13KHz by listening and measuring the driver roll-off of the Fostex. Ironically there is no overlap between the woofer and tweeter by tuning by ear method. Later i fine tuned my compensation network to get the best square wave response combining the Fostex and the Audiopur RT for this tweeter crossover. Now they sound seamless to me without the need for a measuring microphone to testify. As the tweeter is crossed at 13KHz the wavelength is around 1 inches, which will anyway not diffract from the baffle as the output from the tweeter will have a very narrow dispersion and footprint. I would love to measure them though to confirm this.

In you case try to keep the tweeter crossover within 4" wavelength there by you will not need any felt on the baffle for diffraction.
 
@ tcpip

Today i have ordered an Dayton Audio UMM-6 measurement microphone from Parts Express and expecting delivery in another 2 weeks. Will post measurement results of my Meteronome ML TQWT speakers shortly.
 
@ tcpip

Today i have ordered an Dayton Audio UMM-6 measurement microphone from Parts Express and expecting delivery in another 2 weeks. Will post measurement results of my Meteronome ML TQWT speakers shortly.

A must Tool to know how efficient is the Enclosure Design. Congrats Mr. Hari.:)
 
A partial handle on costs

I am beginning to get an idea of the costs of the speakers, sans crossover components.

The Bhoopali:
bhoopali-costs.png


The Bhairav:
bhairav-costs.png


The costs are for a pair of speakers. And the crossover costs are not yet known.

The Labour line item is what I've paid my carpenter for each pair of boxes. (I've actually paid him more, but that's because he made mistakes and had to re-do a thing or two here and there.) One trained carpenter of average intellect, with some ability to use a router, took about five days, working alone, to finish one pair of boxes, including the fixing of the laminate.

It's interesting to see that even for a low cost model, my use of thick 25mm MDF and adequate bracing with 18mm ply, results in the MDF+plywood costs accounting for only a very small part of the total costs. This means that some builders who always want to go with thinner and lighter material in order to be "practical" may not find the loss of quality worth their while. And to estimate costs of all sheets (MDF, ply, laminate), I've taken 50% markup over actual consumption to account for wastage. Your wastage may vary, depending on how many pairs you're building.

In case you're curious, I'm paying Rs.90/sqft for my MDF, Rs.62/sqft for my plywood, and laminate was about Rs.45/sqft. Both MDF and ply are what's called "commercial" grade but of very good quality -- they're not marine grade.

One of the major costs I've incurred is the binding post assemblies. This is because I chose to go with expensive premium Dayton assemblies, with metal plates and binding posts (I like them! :eek:hyeah:). You can easily replace the Rs.4,200 with Rs.400 if you go with plastic MX terminal cups. Totally up to you, and they won't impact performance one whit.

For the crossover components, I am assuming that the crossovers will not be very complex, since these drivers are relatively easy to cross over. Therefore, I am estimating that I'll be able to get away with 3 coils and half a dozen capacitors per enclosure. I'll ask diyaudiocart to make me the coils using their 18AWG enamelled copper wire, which I feel is perfectly adequate for most speakers, not just these ones. For capacitors, I will use (if possible) good but non-boutique MKP/MKT caps. You can estimate their prices, to get a ball park of the total project costs, till we actually have the crossovers designed and know the exact figures. My very, very rough estimate is that the crossovers will land up being about Rs.5000 per pair of speakers.

The enclosures are done bar the black painting of the front baffle. Once they're done, I'll fit the drivers, take measurements, and start on crossover modelling. If you recollect this post, I'd said I have a 9-step process to design and build speakers. As per that process, I'm halfway through Step 4 now.

* * * * *

When I finish Step 5 (the in-box measurements of impedance and SPL), I'll upload the FRD and ZMA files here, as I've been doing for everything else. At that time, I'll look forward to at least three of you downloading and installing crossover design software on your PCs, adding my FRD and ZMA files, and playing with crossover design. I will want at least three of you to actually simulate my crossover design, change the values of components, see how the simulated system's FR (frequency response) curve changes due to these tweaks, and discuss your doubts in this thread. In money terms, it will cost you nothing. In terms of work, you won't have to do any building or measuring -- you'll just have to play with software on your PC. So it should be very interesting but not intimidating.

The process I've been following here of walking through the entire design and build journey will only be worth it if at least some of you lose your fear of design engineering and design tools and play with real data and understand how easy, and how scientific it is. Ordinary mortals like me can't design good speakers just by ear -- but they do it nevertheless, because they don't know any other way and don't have anyone to guide them. And they always land up with designs which are worse than they could have been. I want at least some of you to experience the sensible, easy, engineering approach.

I can tell you right now which software I'll be using: it's XSim. It's the easiest software to use for tweaking crossover designs. Once you start using it, you'll wonder why you didn't do it earlier. It's easier to use than Word or Excel. And it's free. :D
 
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@ tcpip

What is the crossover order you will be using with these speaker system?

Also you need to stuff / damp the enclosures as per recommendation without the crossover before you take the ZMA measurements for the woofer. This is because you want to design the crossover for the stuffed box.
 
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What is the crossover order you will be using with these speaker system?
That gets decided after I can see the SPL curves, of course. At this point, knowing very little about these drivers, I'll go with a minimum of 2nd order electrical, which may mean maybe 3rd order acoustic. As you know by now, I'll always use this as a minimum on the tweeter, because "all else being equal", I prefer crossing over a bit on the lower side, to avoid beaming of the midbass drivers. Beyond this, I'm unable to decide anything at present.

Also you need to stuff / damp the enclosures as per recommendation without the crossover before you take the ZMA measurements for the woofer. This is because you want to design the crossover for the stuffed box.
Ekdum correct.
 
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A quick question tcpip, was the mdf was cut manually or CNC etc? I just got some mdf cut by a local carpenter with an error of 1 to 2 mm. How to eliminate it any suggestions
 
A quick question tcpip, was the mdf was cut manually or CNC etc? I just got some mdf cut by a local carpenter with an error of 1 to 2 mm. How to eliminate it any suggestions

Don't worry an error of 1mm to 2mm in the overall dimensions will have no impact in the outcome if the box is airtight. You will need to focus more on the crossover network design to have maximum impact on the SQ.
 
Don't worry an error of 1mm to 2mm in the overall dimensions will have no impact in the outcome if the box is airtight. You will need to focus more on the crossover network design to have maximum impact on the SQ.
Thanks It's a single FR project so crossover is not used, I see slight gaps due to the cuts and want to avoid in future builds.
 
Thanks It's a single FR project so crossover is not used, I see slight gaps due to the cuts and want to avoid in future builds.

It will be Better if you Post some Photos of your Enclosure. The Gaps can be filled with wood dust & glue mixture. or by using putty.

Sadik
 
It will be Better if you Post some Photos of your Enclosure. The Gaps can be filled with wood dust & glue mixture. or by using putty.

Sadik

Thats what I did, but I am not happy because aesthetically not perfect.
 
If the box dimensions are 1-2mm off, there is no impact on the sound. If there is a gap of 1mm all along an edge, and there is consequent air leakage, this is serious, and Sadik's approach will work. I usually just use Araldite to seal such gaps.

However, a gap is surprising. A carpenter working with just a saw, a set square, and a jackplane can make a box without gaps. This is easy for them; they're good at making things match up using the jackplane to get well-fitting joints.
 
If there is gap only near the speaker cutout, try using felt as a inner lining for the speaker. You can cut an exact size for the speaker and use it as a liner. Since felts are around 2mm to 3 mm thick it can work as a good seal for the speaker and prevent air escape from there.
 
Thanks, it's in both side edges from top to bottom the size had varied.
So can a manual cut can be presize?
 
100% yes. Accurate enough for speaker building. The only part which requires an accurate machine is the cutout and recessing for mounting the driver.
For that I have a B&D router, which I do myself Carpenters are relatunt to use it.
 
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